Product Description
MOO-Kleen Part and Chassis Wash
Aggressive on dirt. Complementary to everything else.
At minimum, a serious RC maintenance routine needs two kinds of cleaner: a corrosive degreaser for full breakdowns and rebuilds, when you need to strip greases, oils, and lubricants away entirely, and a non-corrosive cleaner for everyday washing that never affects the lubricants and protectants already doing their job. Anything caught in between does neither job well. Part and Chassis Wash is built to be that second half, and it's aggressive at its one job specifically because it carries zero corrosive or degreasing agents of any kind.
That distinction matters more than it sounds. Plenty of household cleaners, dish soap included, are non-corrosive to plastic, but they're still loaded with penetrating, grease-cutting agents built to strip oils, much like Part and Chassis Wash itself is loaded with penetrating agents. The difference is what those agents are aimed at. Dish soap's penetrance goes after the plasticizing oils that keep RC plastics and rubber pliable, just slower and less obviously than a corrosive chemical would. Because Part and Chassis Wash has no corrosive or degreasing agents in it at all, its penetrating agents have nothing to act on except dirt and contaminants, so they can be loaded in far more heavily with zero risk. It can be doused directly on lubricants, seals, O-rings, and plastics with no negative effect whatsoever, because nothing in the formula is capable of touching them.
There's important context to understand here before you use it. If you're trying to strip grease or oil, or clean anything with grease or oil residue, using Part and Chassis Wash will leave you extremely disappointed, though that's a demonstration of its laser-like focus, and how good it actually is at its intended purpose, not a shortcoming. It is aggressive on dirt and contaminants precisely and has zero effect on the lubricants, protectants, plastics, and polymers you want left alone.
Genuinely and fully safe for waterproof electronics, and not just in the sense that a few uses won't hurt them. Repeated use of a corrosive cleaner will gradually break down whatever waterproofing method was used, a seal or a conformal coating, over time. Part and Chassis Wash won't, because there's nothing in the formula capable of degrading it. It's water-based, though, so it's not safe for electronics that aren't actually waterproof to begin with.
It's also safe on top of whatever protectants you've already applied, the cleaner itself won't strip them. Physical scrubbing with a brush or towel can still wear some of it away mechanically during the cleaning process, but that's separate from the chemical itself, which leaves it alone.
Now on its third reformulation, with the most significant change being a switch in the protective finish it leaves behind, from a wax-based component to a ceramic one, which locks in oils and leaves no residue. This latest version also doubled the concentrate's strength without raising the price, so a concentrate purchase now delivers twice the usable product per dollar than it did before.
How to use it
Apply it heavy, there's no advantage to being conservative with it. Visible dirt or mud calls for a generous application, light dust needs much less. Let it dwell for two to five minutes, and don't remove it too soon, that's the window where you'll actually see the penetrating agents go to work, beginning to break down and separate dirt and contaminants right in front of you. Skip that wait, and you might still think the product did a fine job, but you'll never actually see how good it really is, since you never let the penetrating agents finish their work. After that, remove it however you like, air, water, or towel all work well, though water is quickest if you've protected the vehicle beforehand with Silicone Spray against rust. Just make sure you actually dry things off properly afterward rather than leaving everything sitting soaking wet. On a properly protected vehicle that's visibly dirty or muddy from a run, the first pass should get you very close to clean, with maybe a quick second pass with a brush for stubborn spots. Most of the time spent is waiting, not scrubbing.
This is a rare situation for most people, but if you're cleaning somewhere genuinely extreme, out in the Arizona desert, or on the hottest, driest day in California, you might notice it drying out before the dwell time is up. If that happens, just add a bit more water to keep it wet rather than reapplying the whole product, only the water evaporates, the active ingredients don't.
It leaves behind a nice matte finish on its own, no buffing required, though buffing it out with a microfiber towel or Chamois Sponge gives it an even nicer, glossier look if you want to take it a step further. That finish also offers some real, if secondary, protection against rust and dirt sticking on your next run. It's nowhere near a replacement for Silicone Spray, though, that remains the real tool for serious protection.
For application, a standard trigger bottle works, but a pressurized sprayer is a genuine game changer for how efficiently the product gets used, whether that's our own USB Rechargeable Sprayer or a basic ten to twenty dollar pressurized floral sprayer from a hardware store. For a smaller, focused area rather than a full wash, a Reservoir Brush is a great option too.
It's also great in our standard Ultrasonic Cleaner for lifting dirt and contaminants, just not for degreasing, that's a job for Cleaner and Degreaser or Simple Sonic instead.
A quick note on tires: it's completely safe and plenty of people love it there, but it may not be the ideal tire cleaner for you. The ceramic finish needs a brief moment to wear off before full traction kicks in, and unlike Tire Wash, it has no degreasing agent, so it won't strip environmental oils sitting on the tire's surface, it just cleans what's visible. For casual bashing, that's perfectly adequate. For someone serious about tire performance, Tire Wash is the correct tool for that job, not a close alternative.
Available in three sizes
The 8oz Pre-Mix is ready to use right out of the bottle, mixed at our Heavy Duty ratio of one to twenty. It's a great way to try the product, but even the smaller 16oz Concentrate, mixed at that same ratio, makes over 40 of these 8oz bottles worth of usable product. Unless you genuinely just want to try it before committing, the premix isn't the economical choice.
The 16oz Concentrate and 32oz Concentrate let you dial in your own strength, from Extra Heavy Duty at one to sixteen for the toughest jobs, down to Regular Duty at one to thirty two for routine upkeep, treat these as flexible guideposts rather than rigid rules. The smaller 16oz bottle alone makes roughly two to five gallons of usable product, the 32oz makes four to ten. Shipping and storing a concentrate is also dramatically cheaper and lighter than shipping the equivalent gallons of ready-mixed product, which would weigh dozens of pounds, savings that get passed straight to you. For a visual reference, see the dilution guide below.
Some tips from the team:
- It's UV reactive, so leaving it out in the sun over time will fade its green color, green being the most UV-reactive of all dyes, purely cosmetic with zero effect on performance.
- It's a foaming formula, so if you like seeing suds while you clean, running it through a foaming applicator will give you that, though foam itself doesn't make it clean any better.
- If you ever notice water spotting or residue after cleaning, that's coming from your water, not the formula, hard or mineralized water is the actual source. Mixing with distilled or filtered water avoids it entirely.
Features:
- 100% non-corrosive, safe for lubricants, protectants, plastics, and polymers already in place
- Genuinely safe for waterproof electronics, won't degrade seals or conformal coatings with repeated use
- Ceramic protective finish (newly reformulated) locks in oils and leaves zero residue
- Dries to a clean matte finish, no buffing required
- Doubled concentrate strength at the same price, twice the usable product per dollar
- Available as a ready-to-use 8oz Pre-Mix or a dial-your-own-strength Concentrate

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Product Reviews
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Parts and chassis wash
Does a great job makes cleaning so much easier
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Chassis Wash
Stop using house hold chemicals on your RC vehicles!!! This Chassis Wash does a better job and is safe for your plastics, even your expensive aluminum upgrades. We have been using it for several years now on everything from 5th scale trucks, nitro buggies bashers and even the crawlers.
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So good. So easy.
I mean..this stuff really works. It really and truly is THAT simple. I thought for sure all these people were exaggerating…but nope. This is good stuff right here.
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Effective product
I recently ordered my second Moo-Kleen Parts and Chassis Wash concentrate. The first one lasted forever even at heavy duty ratio. Effectively dissolves dirt and makes removal much easier. Very pleasant scent.
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parts and chassis wash
best cleaner for your Rc equipment and wont harm the plastic and nylon parts
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Cleaner
Amazing product to remove dirt a carpet fuzz from chassis and other parts
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Moo-Kleen parts and chassis wash
Seriously the best cleaner I have ever used smells great and overall cleans! No harsh chemicals no need for gloves! Just grab ur chassis wash and your detailing brushes and go to town! Its concentrated so add water! I highly recommend this to anyone that's looking for the best cleaners in the rc industry!
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Great Cleanser
Where has this been! Cleans great and doesn't leave a residue. Spritz a little on a lint free shop towel and grime gone. Pair this with CowRCs excellent customer service and it is a win win.
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Love this cleaner
The Moo Kleen is the best cleaner I have used on my RC's. I've been using it for years and it does a fantastic job at breaking down the dirt, mud, oil, and grease giving my trucks a like new finish every time.